Chapter 4: Mountains, hill tribes, more water

From Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son province by bus to find that at this altitude there are cold nights, sunny Mediterranean days and flora (plus rice) and autumn tints on deciduous forests on the hilltops, quite a surprise.
Pai, ex-hippie centre of opium growing era, now a tired small town trading on its history but still loads of Thai tourists and travellers trying to see if the magic still exists, ethnic food, live music and jam sessions are the flavour here. Biking (1.15GBP per day!) around the valley the best bit.
Managed to get on a whitewater rafting trip for 2 days down Pai river to Mae Hong Son (63km and 40 sets of rapids - not at full spate but still fun), which is where I am headed anyway AND chops off a 4-5 hour bus trip over the mountains containing a well-publicised 1,864 serious bends (you can even buy the T-shirt).
Motorbike trip (3GBP per day plus 1GBP petrol) to particular tribal village of the Paduang people, a sub-sect of the Kayah people, refugees from Burma. Granted land for farming outside of the refugee camp as they bring tourist value due to their custom of wearing brass coils around their necks, knees and ankles - weigh up to 5kg each, depresses the collarbones and ribcage rather than stretching the neck, kids start at 5 with 1kg.
Then trip to a Chinese village, Mae Aw (or Ban Rak Thai in new name, meaning Village loves Thailand)populated by Kuomintang fighters (anti-Mao Chinese war in the 1960's) who were allowed to settle and grow tea and coffee in the highlands, now that Opium is a no-no. Also went to a Royal Food Bank project, teaching the hill tribes how best to grow crops organically and sustainably. They share the produce and sell the extras. Then they go back to their villages to spread the word.
Xmas in Mae Hong Son city, catching my breath before 3 hour bus trip south to Mae Sariang and a serious 1 day jungle trek, wading through streams and complete with machete at times by the guide to Karen tribe villages and jungle waterfalls - 8 hours of it! The Grizzly beard has made a comeback too, see horrible photo under waterfall! Learnt how to say how are you? and Cheers! in Kareni language, very useful.
Now south again in Tak province after 6-hour open-sided pickup truck trip over the mountains at Burmese border city of Mae Sot for New Year. Went past huge refugee camp near Burmese border, been there a while but very depressing. Lots of dodgy trade with Burma here, drugs, teak and gems apparently, Thai officials get bribed.
Heading to Um Phang for largest falls in Thailand, more rafting and jungle trekking, supposed to be most beautiful Nat Park in this country. No internet, phones, banks, ATM or anything down there so there will be a short interlude.
Cheers! Tabloo! Mike
Photos link: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/laurentmik/Thailand_2007_Chapter_4 . You can also go to this blog, and therefore the pics by Google searching on "Dodgy Uncle Mike" and selecting the first of two results, not many of us around then.